Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on